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Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is a city, surrounded by mountains, in the North of Laos. Apart from the market, there’s not too much to see in the city centre but the attractions are not too far away. The hostel where I stayed here was in an amazing location and the staff were amazing, I would definitely visit LP again.

Here are my top recommendations for Luang Prabang:

1. Kuang Si Falls

Arguably the main reason to visit Luang Prabang, these waterfalls are like nothing you’ll ever see. Crystal blue water and beige rocks makes this place look like its straight out of a fairytale.

Take a tuktuk from the city centre (share if you can) straight to the entrance, we paid 150,000 kip between 3 people. You then get a ticket and are taken in a golf buggy to the waterfall. There are a few waterfalls to see, some of which you can swim in- just watch out for the nibbly fish!

2. Bear Sanctuary

This is a small attraction in the same location as Kuang Si Falls, which they don’t really advertise. Right at the bottom waterfall there’s a small entrance to take you through to the bear sanctuary where they care for some rescued black bears.

They are adorable and an animal I really wanted to see outside of a zoo, I definitely wouldn’t want to run into one in the wild though! You don’t have to pay to walk around, you can see into their enclosures from several high up shelters.

3. Mount Phousi

Located in the middle of the city, Mount Phousi is a beautiful place to watch the sunset and, to my relief, is a very short hike.

Walk half way down the market until you find a set of stairs heading upwards and keep climbing until you see the gorgeous view of the mountains and jungle in the distance.

4. Break for a Bread

A highlight of the trip had to be this cafe. For only 15,000kip (less than £1) you can eat the most delicious local Lao food, Banh Mi.

I can safely say I came back here everyday for the most delicious vegetable Banh Mi and I have been thinking about it ever since. The staff were so lovely and even gave us a local drink to try as well! If you are in Luang Prabang you HAVE to go here!

5. Monk Alms Giving

No matter what your beliefs are, this morning ceremony is a lovely cultural experience.

Held at a lovely time of 5am, this ceremony involves all of the local people offering rice and snacks to give to the monks as an offering to them. Even if you don’t participate, watching the sea of orange robes go down the streets is such an amazing experience. It is held on the main street every morning so there’s no excuse to miss it!

As always, I am happy to help with any questions or recommendations so feel free to comment or send me a message on instagram @emilyparnell2

Pai

Pai is a small town located a 3 hour van ride North of Chiang Mai and is an absolute backpacker hub. There are a number of nice hostels which host lots of activities, however I chose to stay in a bungalow as we were able to get it discounted to £5 for 2 people (£2.50 each). The centre of Pai has a street of market stalls which are open every night with a variety of different cuisines and for so cheap!

Here are my top recommendations for Pai:

1. Tipsy Tubing

Pai is famous for Tipsy Tubing. This activity involves getting drunk while you cruise down a river on an inflatable rubber ring and as you can imagine, the health and safety standards are minimal which makes it much more fun than you’d ever get to have in europe.

You will be sent down the river in a group of minimum 20 and 1 guide to push you along. Other than that you’re pretty much left to your own devices. You can expect buffalo in the water, some rapid currents which throw you out of your hoop, massive rocks in your path to bump into and to lose your friends, but as long as you have a beer in hand you’ll have a great time. You will be stopped about 40 minutes down the river for a “party” equipped with some fresh fruit, a speaker, a cooler of beer and a couple of volleyballs. After a few hours playing cards and drinking more you’ll be back on the water for the last 50 mins of your journey. By this point everyone is wet and drunk so drag themselves out of the water and into a tuktuk back to Pai centre.

2. Pai Canyon

We visited Pai Canyon as part of a tour which also included the other main sights around Pai. We went there at about 6:00pm in time for sunset and it was honestly beautiful. There was a guy playing his guitar by the benches so the atmosphere was amazing.

You are able to climb quite a long way across the canyon but be wary as its slippy and a long way down! It is in the middle of nowhere and there is no public transport so you either have to go by scooter or tour. I think ours was about 600/700 baht for the whole day including lunch which is not bad but scooters are 100 baht a day in Pai so it would be cheaper to do it yourself. To see more videos of the other places we went on the tour, look on my TikTok @emilyparnell01

3. The Caves

This was another stop on the tour, the caves. We were dropped off and led into the caves in groups of 3, by ladies with lanterns. We walked up steep steps to see inside all of the amazing parts of the cave as well as looking for bats (there’s thousands of them)!

We then took a bamboo raft down the river (watch out for falling bat poo!) before heading back out of the cave. There are also loads of fish in the river which jump so fiercely out of the water that they could get onto the raft!

4. Sunset Bar

This is one of the most popular bars in Pai. Pai is known for being a bit of a “party” town with psychedelics being a very common evening activity. The sunset bar is about a 15 minute walk from the walking street and is quite hard to find, probably on purpose, and you can buy everything you could possibly want there.

It is also a great place for meeting other backpackers and has a really relaxed vibe. Everyone is very friendly and willing to chat so even if you just fancy a couple beers you can go and hang out there. They also have a swimming pool and host some day time parties too. The place is covered in colourful lights and paint so its a cool place to go and visit!

5. Hot Springs

This was another destination from the tour! There is an entrance fee for the national park where the springs are located which I believe is 200-300 baht, however this was included in our tour.

The Hot Springs are naturally occurring, mineral water pools and depending on the time of year you visit and which pool you go in, the temperatures range from a warm bath temperature up to 80’C! There is also mud on the edges of some of the springs which is meant to be really good for your skin so feel free to get dirty!

As always, I am happy to help with any questions or recommendations so feel free to comment or send me a message on instagram @emilyparnell2

Chiang Mai

Chaing Mai, the second biggest city in Thailand however definitely not the second-best! Chiang Mai has the buzz of city life but without the isolated feeling of Bangkok. There’s so much to do in a close proximity, the people are so welcoming and the weekend night markets are incomparable, which makes this city number 1 on the places in Asia I could see myself living. In fact, I actually spent 3 weeks in this province! So, what is there actually to do? Chiang Mai is all about jungles and culture which is what makes it so different from the South. This is the place to see rescued elephants in their most natural habitat and to visit the most spectacular temples.

Here are my top recommendations for Chiang Mai:

1. Elephant Nature Park

ENP Chiang Mai is one of the main reasons I have kept coming, and will continue to come, back to Thailand. This is one of the only ethical elephant rescue parks across SE Asia and the Save The Elephant Foundation does so much to help eliminate negative tourism of these amazing animals.

So what does your visit to ENP look like? You can either go for a day trip, 2 days 1 night or do a whole week of volunteering like I did. With this you’ll get accommodation (with mosquito nets of course), three buffet meals a day and an experience like you’ve never imagined. ENP work tirelessly to rescue elephants and provide them with a habitat most like they would have in the wild. The park also have thousands of rescue dogs, cats, buffalo and so they are constantly expanding to meet the needs of all their animals. As part of the volunteer programme you’ll be helping with everything from feeding, cleaning and maintenance in the park and then your evenings you’ll have to socialise with your group. This is number 1 on the list for a reason, it is the most rewarding experience and if you get the chance to listen to Lek’s story, you will be so inspired.

2. Sticky Waterfall

How can a waterfall be sticky? Can you climb it? Is that safe? All questions I had before I visited this weird and wonderful attraction. An hour tuktuk drive into the jungle, Sticky Waterfall is definitely worth a visit. It is like nothing you’ll ever experience, there are a few different waterfalls to climb, all of the same structure, so I would suggest leaving your shoes at the top, walking all the way to the bottom waterfall and off you go.

The waterfall is made of porous rocks which mean your feet easily grip to it, allowing you to walk up through the water. Some areas have ropes to help you but you can pretty much climb the whole way safely without anything but your hands and feet, watch out for the green algae though as I did end up falling in a few times! This is a great activity for a hot, sticky day and I would suggest getting a group together from your hostel to make the tuktuk cheaper (and so they can take some cool pictures of you!).

3. Weekend Night Markets

You HAVE to be in Chiang Mai on the weekend! The Saturday and Sunday night markets are full with hundreds of stalls offering some of the best crafts, gifts and food that Northern Thailand has to offer and the best part, its so cheap! A real bonus of Northern Thailand is that its so much cheaper than the South, and this means you can try something from every stall you like whilst still keeping to the budget!

Chiang Mai Old Town appears on the map as a square of roads and it is about a 20/25 minute walk to cross this area in any direction. This is perfect as you are able to see all of the hidden gems in a short walk and the best market is located right across the centre. I would suggest allowing 2-3 hours to walk through the market from about 6-9pm.

4. The Monk Trail

One of the most challenging parts of the trip has to be this trail. With little information about what was ahead of us, we set off to the Mueang region on the west of Chiang Mai in search of the Doi Suthep temple (photo on the left). This hike is definitely worth it to get to see this amazing temple however be prepared for lots of water breaks because it takes a tough 1-2 hours to reach the top.

Get a tuktuk from the old town of Chiang Mai to Wat Phi Lat, the first temple. After exploring there, find your way behind the temple and up the small steep path which will lead you to the main road. Its no more than 100 meters to the left, up the main road, before you have to cross over and begin the uphill climb. Begin at the vertical muddy hill and keep heading up, not necessarily on a path, until you come across the road again. By now you are only a 20 minute walk either up the road or through the houses to the temple. At the top you will find refreshments, small stalls and of course the temple. This is where I received my monk bracelet which gave me good luck throughout the whole trip!

TIP: don’t forget to pack your long trousers and shirt so you can go inside the temple.

5. Doi Inthanon National Park

Take a tour to Doi Inthanon National Park either by yourself on a scooter or through a group tour like I did. I’m very glad i chose this option as many of the roads around these attractions are small, winding and uphill, scary for a first time scooter user! This tour took us to waterfalls, on a hike through the jungle, into rice fields, to the home of the Karen Tribe, to the King and Queen Pagoda’s and to the highest point in Thailand!

I would definitely recommend this trip to anyone staying in Chiang Mai. You get to experience lots of culture and gain lots of information from the guide whilst being outside and hiking. We stopped at 2 waterfalls, one of which you could swim in, and walked through miles of rice fields before sharing local tea with the Karen Tribe and learning about their lifestyle. We finished the day at the freezing cold, highest point in Thailand so remember to pack a jumper! Definitely a tour to remember!

SE Asia Country Summary

I have just come home from a 3.5 month trip across South-East Asia. I travelled to 7 countries in total, meeting some amazing people, tasting the best food and staying in some very interesting places… I wanted to share my experiences of each country I visited, as well the things I think would be helpful for other backpackers to know about them, especially post-covid!

COUNTRIES TO VISIT:

Thailand– By far my favourite place in SE Asia! The people are so welcoming and there is always an abundance of backpackers so you are never lonely. This paired with the never-ending variety of food, night markets and affordable prices for everything, makes Thailand my favourite place to visit. The contrast between the North and the South of Thailand means you get to experience jungle, wildlife and night markets as well as beaches, boats and partying, just a 12 hour sleeper bus apart! If you haven’t ridden a scooter before, the quieter towns in Thailand are definitely the place to learn.

Laos– When I visited Laos it was right at the time it opened back up to tourists, so for us it was very quiet. There weren’t many backpackers, however due to how much Laos suffered from lack of tourism over covid, there was only one or two hostels actually open in each city which meant all the travellers ended up together. The scenery in Laos is unlike anywhere else, there are mountains and lakes just minutes outside the city, so there are amazing views from pretty much anywhere you go. Luang Prabang city is actually surrounded by mountains which is stunning! It is also extremely cheap here with local food costing around 12,000 kip for a good meal (65p)! The only negative thing I can say about Laos is that in some towns there is a really eery atmosphere and a sense of what used to be, from when this country was one of the most popular backpacker places around a decade ago.

Cambodia– One of the more travelled countries in SE Asia and for good reason! Cambodia also has such a contrast between the big cities compared to the islands in the South. Siem Reap and Phnom Penh are all about culture and are buzzing with people. The average age in Cambodia is 25 and so the whole country feels really modern and lively. The islands in the South, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem, are quite small and so a great place for meeting other backpackers and there is a hostel there which hosts a weekly “festival”! The only downside of Cambodia is the price. Food especially is much more expensive than the neighbouring countries which is difficult when you have to eat out for every meal!

Malaysia– Probably the least travelled country in the classic SE Asia route meaning hostels are few and so are backpackers. Malaysia has the biggest amount of different religions and cultures which means there are lots of amazing places like “Little India” and “China Town” in each city and the religious buildings (e.g. Mosques) are like nothing you’ve ever seen! For vegetarians, I found this was the most difficult place to eat street food, however there are plenty of western style restaurants available. I found that the hostels in Malaysia were of a much lower standard than other countries and not particularly cheap which was a shame as it is a beautiful country you could spend a while exploring.

Singapore– By far the most expensive country in SE Asia, however, you get what you pay for! There is the least amount of crime, the cleanest streets and the biggest variety of people, architecture and food. This whole country is basically made up by the city which is packed full of high-rise buildings and interesting architecture. It is definitely worth reading up on local customs here as I learnt the hard way that chewing gum is illegal! The transport system in Singapore is fast and efficient and can take you easily to all attractions for very cheap! Head to Gardens by the Bay to see the famous trees and the cloud dome!

Vietnam– I didn’t visit Vietnam during this trip as I was short on time and had visited previously in 2018 however, from other people I met, I was able to get an idea of the current state of the country from a backpacker point of view. Get a scooter! If you have around a month to allocate to Vietnam some people buy a motorbike in the North and drive it down before selling it in the South. This allows you to see everywhere in the country by your own schedule whilst saving money on transport. Vietnam is known for being one of the cheaper places in SE Asia and also has a reputation for having some of the best food and scenery! Definitely worth visiting if you have time to see all of the main cities!

As always if there are any other questions I can answer or you would like some more information then please reach out!